Coloring Hair with Herbs

Henna gets a bad rap. There are real concerns when using a henna based hair dye, which I’ll address, but the truth is that it is a great option for those who want to color their hair but are concerned for the health of their hair, either long term or short term. Blending other herbs with the henna can create an array of beautiful colors, and also enhance the health of the hair, although henna itself is healthy for the hair on its own, and don’t worry, there are mixes out there that already do the combining for you. Not every ‘natural’ hair dye is free of ammonia and other toxic chemicals though, so beware when buying. Hair coloring products should literally only have herbs in them and nothing else to be truly health promoting for the hair, the skin, the respiratory system, endocrine system, and the planet. And yes, all those aspects of health (and more) are indeed touched by the hair dye used, but even so, it’s important to know a few things before committing to herbal hair coloring, the first being that it is indeed a commitment. Henna coats each strand of your hair with color while chemical dyes actually break apart the outer layer of the hair and deposit color (contributing to frizz). This means when you want to change hair color with chemically dyed hair, that is fairly easy to do. With henna, your color is locked in and cannot be broken back up by chemicals. You can go darker (with darker henna mixes) but you cannot easily go lighter, or get any chemical processes on top of the henna, such as highlights or balayage. That being said, there are ways to lighten your hennaed hair a bit, but it takes time and there’s no couple-of-hours-at-the salon option. I have lightened my hair in the summer with lemon juice and there are tutorials on YouTube that cover lightening hennaed hair with olive oil or honey or a mixture of both. Some spices even help lighten hair when used in the honey/olive oil mixtures because they contain natural peroxide, as does honey. Whatever the option though, it takes multiple applications, as in around 6 or more, so if you are the type of person who likes changing their hair color often, then you should probably hold off on henna for now.

Another important thing to consider is that the colors are pretty much shades of red, brown, and black. There is no way to henna yourself to blondeness. You can get an amazing array of colors with the blending of herbs though, and since the color only shows on the hair when the dye is darker than the hair it is going on, you can also have variation in your hair instead of one shade all over your head, if you that’s what you want. For example, my natural color is dark brown but I have a lot of white hair (early greying runs in my family and I’ve been getting whites since I was a kid, so there are plenty there by this point!) When I put the henna blend on my hair, I mix it to be lighter than my dark brown, so that the lighter color shows on my white hairs and the dark brown remains dark brown, so it’s basically natural highlights. The brand I use is Henna Color Lab and it’s only available online. I’ve found that I have to mix a little of the light brown into the medium brown for the perfect shade for me because when I just used the medium brown it ended up getting too dark which is why I’ve done some lemon juice lightening. It’s always a good idea to start with a much lighter shade anyway and see how it goes since you can always go over it with a darker one, but the reverse is not true.

The first time you color your hair with a henna based mix, you should know that the color continues to change for 24-48 hours. For me, when I first take the color off and dry my hair (heat helps the dye do its thing) the color looks too light and a tad orangey, then overnight it turns much darker and in fact usually looks too dark that next morning. Then the color settles into the normal brown that matches my hair. For me that means about 2 Tablespoons of the light brown and 3 Tablespoons of the medium brown, mixed with warm water (no need to boil) and a drop or two of rosemary essential oil. My friend mixes an egg with her henna mixture for extra nutrients but I’ve never tried that since the smell of eggs is not my favorite and the mixture stays on the head one to two hours. Speaking of smells, the henna mixes have a strong earthy scent, much like a clay face mask. I personally love it but my kids can’t stand it although they complain less when I add the rosemary to it.

I only use the color on my roots and while it sits for an hour or two I generally put a deep moisturizer on the rest of my hair, either the herb amla which is especially good for curly and wavy hair or another natural mask such as Yarok’s Feed Your Moisture Mask or Rahua’s Omega 9 Mask. I get the amla from that same henna company as the color dyes. Their herbal masks are listed under treatments. 

Since the color is only going on my roots, one package of hair dye lasts several applications and the packages are not expensive at all, so this is one case where the natural way of doing things really is money saving. I really don’t mean to make this sound like an ‘everyone should henna their hair’ post though because it really does depend on some serious factors of time, choice in colors, and ability to change your hair color on a whim which is a valid concern. For me with naturally wavy/curly hair (which is dry), that’s been greying for a long time (grey hair is dry),  and had chemical dyes for years (also drying), it really wasn’t a hard choice for me to decide herbs were the way to go if I wanted healthy hair for the long-term. I’d heard so many bad things about henna though, that it took me a good year of researching different companies and formulas to find one I trust. I’m not affiliated in any way with Henna Color Lab by the way. I just really like their products for their ingredients and the results I get and if you read the reviews on their site, I’m not alone. There are probably other great herbal mixtures out there but when I was looking at hair dyes at natural foods stores I found a lot of ammonia and other unsavory ingredients which is why I ended up buying online.

If you are interested in other traditional remedies for thinning and greying hair, this post has some options for working both internally and externally. If you are curious as to what henna dying involves, it’s basically the following:

1. Wash hair with shampoo
2. Mix the powdered henna + other herbs mixture with hot water (egg or drop of rosemary essential oil can be added but not necessary)
3. Put the mixture on the parts of hair needing the color
4. Put a shower cap on and wait 1-2 hours
5. Rinse it out with water and then conditioner
6. Blow dry hair

That’s it. It’s healthy for your hair so you can do it as often as necessary, although the mix does say not to use shampoo for 24 hours. I usually do my roots once every 2-3 weeks. To cover stubborn greys you can do the above procedure until step 5, but instead of rinsing it out with conditioner you just rinse with water and then apply a new application of the dye. This is especially recommended for the first time you henna.

Here are pics of my hair when I first started with the henna, and one from a couple of months ago after using henna for a couple of years. In the first two pics I had put it all over my hair once, then did my roots a few times over the course of a couple of months. That last pic shows my roots right after an application but most of my hair is still wet.

If you have any questions about henna, feel free to contact me and I’ll either have an answer or help you look for one.

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